Istanbul: A Tour

Night shot of Istanbul with the Blue Mosque, Yeni Mosque, Hagia Sophia and Galata Bridge

Head to my gallery for some other photos of Istanbul.

Istanbul is one of my favourite cities in the world. I have been twice and will head there a third time in a couple of weeks. While it is a huge sprawling metropolis (it spans two continents), there are a few areas that I now know fairly well. Having absolutely fallen in love with the city, I highly recommend it to everyone. There is something to appeal to all interests and it is probably one of the most kid-friendly places that I have ever been (well, all of Turkey is incredibly fond of children). The places that I write about are for people who have only a couple of days to spend and a fairly tight schedule. If this is your second or third time, skim the list to see if there is anything that you have missed. Here is a brief introductory guide to Istanbul:

Overview and practicalities:

1. Always travel with a universal adapter. These bad boys pay for themselves when you aren't scrambling to find a plug to charge your electronics. 

2. Turkey's outlet is two round prongs and it is 220v. However, given most technology these days, you won't have to worry about anything shorting out.

3. Visas are available in Ataturk Airport right before you go through immigration. Just have $20 cash exact change (for US citizens). Make sure to head to the visa booth before you get in line for immigration!

4. There are ATMs right in Ataturk for a whole bunch of different banks.  There are also change shops all around the city. Try to hit up a couple and compare the exchange rates because they are different.

5. There are two major airports in Istanbul: Ataturk (IST) and Sabiha Gokcen International Airport (SAW). Ataturk is the airport on the European side and it is about a 30-40 minute drive to Sultanahmet. Sabiha Gokcen is on the Asian side and it is about an hour and a half drive to Sultanahmet with traffic (although I read a horror story that said they were stuck for four hours). If you are flying to SAW, I would recommend booking a private transport, although you can go the much cheaper public transport route. Make sure you know what airport you are going to/from since a mistake will cost you the flight.

6. A cab from Taksim Square to Sultanahmet cost me about 12-14 lira. If you are traveling with a group of four or more, take the cab. It will be the same price as the tram but WAY less crowded. A cab ride from Sultanahmet to Eminonu will likely be cheaper because it is closer. If you take a cab, ALWAYS make sure they put on the meter so they can't cheat you.

7. Watch your stuff on the tram. It gets really, really packed and is a prime place for pickpockets.

8. Food can range anywhere from 50 kurush (cents - this is for the stuffed mussels) to 30 or more lira. Restaurants along the tram line are going to be more expensive unless you go for street-side food or takeaway wraps.   

In Istanbul:

1. I recommend first-time travelers stay in Sultanahmet. It is the old city and has the greatest cluster of historical sights. The best method to getting from Ataturk to your hotel in Sultanahmet is taxi. To get to Sultanahmet it costs 45 lira (ish $25) and it is pretty reliable since there is a specific airport road that is separate from the regular traffic. Another method you can use is the metro.  There is a line that takes you to the city and from there you transfer to the tram line. You can transfer at Zeytinburnu and then walk a little bit to catch the tram towards Kabataş, and then get off at Sultanahmet. Another option is to get off at the end stop in the metro called Aksaray and then cab to Sultanahmet. The metro and tram only really cost a couple of lira coins. You need to make sure you have coins on hand to get the tokens that you use to get through the turnstiles. Otherwise you can spring for an Istanbul public transport card (Istanbulkart) and then use that for your whole stay. Pay 10 lira for the card and then load as much money onto it as you want. You can get this card at Ataturk airport as well as in shops around town. You can also keep reusing this card for the same entry point, so if you are traveling with multiple people, you can all use that one card.

The area where you get tokens for the tram and metro in Istanbul.

If you really aren't too concerned with the historical sights of Istanbul and you would rather be in a clubbing area, then stay near Taksim Square, preferably along Istiklal Street. From Ataturk to Taksim, there is a bus (around 10 lira per person) or you can also use the metro/tram combo and get off at the end stop of Kabataş, and then use this other mini tram called the Füniküler or walk.

When looking for hotels, follow the tips that I outlined in my post Planning a Trip. ALWAYS check multiple sites when booking anything and make sure you see the total amount including taxes before you click book.

I have stayed in both Osmanhan Hotel and Sultanahmet Suites and can recommend both. I booked the bottom room in Osmanhan since it is the cheapest, and for Sultanahmet Suites I stayed in their largest apartment with four people and found it wonderful.

In terms of where everything is oriented in relation to each other, it goes Ataturk, Sultanahmet, Galata, Istiklal and then Taksim.  

2. Sultanahmet is the part of the city with the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. These are right across from each other. The Blue Mosque is free to go in, but it is closed during certain times for prayer. They provide you with scarves to wear if you are immodestly dressed (showing shoulders, legs, etc.). The Hagia Sophia costs about 25 lira and you don't have to worry about dress code.

Night shot of the Blue Mosque.

The Hagia Sophia which is across from the Blue Mosque

Information for the Hagia Sophia

Courtyard of the Blue Mosque

Getting the recycled bags that you use to store your shoes in

Ceiling of the Blue Mosque

Scarves that you use to cover yourself (they are laundered and smell great)

You will also find many other artifacts scattered all around the area. Keep a sharp eye out! A lot of these are to the right of the Blue Mosque if the tram road is behind you and the Hagia Sophia is to your left. They are on the side of the Blue Mosque.

Ancient Obelisk sign

Actual ancient obelisk next to the Blue Mosque

Here is one of the obelisks in relation to the Blue Mosque

The Serpent Column next to the obelisk and the Blue Mosque

3. Topkapi Palace is to the right of the Hagia Sophia if you are facing it. There is path that leads you right there. It costs 25 lira to go in.This is worth seeing for the fact that it has the staff of Moses and other artifacts. If you want to go and see the Harem section, you have to pay an extra admission and you should probably go early since they allow only a certain number of people a day.

Entrance to Topkapi Palace as photographed from the nice outer garden

4. The Basilica Cistern is on the other side of the tram street. The tram street is the main street that parallels the blue mosque and the Hagia Sophia (if they were behind you). It is on the side closer to the Hagia Sophia and you can follow the signs to get there. The entrance fee was 10 lira.

The tram street with the Hagia Sophia behind me

Sign for the Basilica Cistern

Information about the Basilica Cistern

Inside the Basilica Cistern. There are even fish down there!

One of the Medusa heads in the Basilica Cistern

 5. If you are facing the tram street with the Hagia Sophia/Blue Mosque behind you then you get to the Grand Bazaar by turning left and walking along the road. You only really need to go here if you want to go shopping. Even then, you might want to try for less touristy areas since the prices are hiked up. I actually found a wholesale lamp store while wandering around and got my hanging lamps for WAY cheaper than what was being offered in the Grand Bazaar.

6. From the tram road you can also get to the Suleymaniye Mosque. Go left for a little bit and then take a road that is perpendicular to the tram road to the right (if you are walking towards the Grand Bazaar). It would be best if you had a map and you can also ask for directions. You can actually be inside during prayer, so you don't have to worry about the timing. They provide you with scarves if you are immodestly dressed (showing shoulders, legs, etc.). From here you can get to the Bosphorus by walking downhill.

Following signs to get to the Suleymaniye Mosque

Tourist entrance for the Suleymaniye Mosque

Inside Suleymaniye Mosque during prayer

7. I would recommend a stop in this restaurant: Mimar Sinan Teras Cafe. It has a spectacular view from the rooftop and you can actually see it from the backside of Suleymaniye Mosque if you were looking towards the Bosphorus.

Sign for the Mimar Sinan Teras Cafe

The terrace part of the restaurant. That is Suleymaniye Mosque and the Bosphorus is behind me

8. To get to the Bosphorus you can either walk from Sultanahmet and follow the tram line to the right or pass by the Suleymaniye Mosque. You can also take the tram which costs 3 lira. Basically you are headed to Eminonu, which is the port for the side you are on if you stay in Sultanahmet. In Eminonu, you will find the ferries that will take you to the Asia-side port of Kadikoy. I definitely recommend the ferry since you will see some fantastic views of the Sultanahmet area. The ferries are also pretty frequent, so you don't have to spend long in Kadikoy, unless you want to. It is also fun to see the seagulls and the people feeding them. Fair warning: it gets crowded trying to get on the ferry so watch your stuff and get your tokens in advance! There are a series of boat houses which have the name of where you want to go as well as the ferry time. You can also look online for the ferry times.

Signs to get to Kadikoy from Eminonu

One of the tokens you use to get on the boat

Ferry line!

Sea view of the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia

Sign to get back to Eminonu from Kadikoy

Feeding the flocking sea gulls on the way to Kadikoy

9. In Eminonu, you will find the Spice Bazaar. It is right next to Yeni Mosque which is by Galata Bridge.

Side of Yeni Mosque with the Spice Bazaar to my right

Spice Bazaar in Istanbul

10. To go from Eminonu to the Karakoy port (the area which has Galata Tower, Istiklal Street and Taksim Square) walk across Galata Bridge. This area is still a part of the European side of Istanbul and it spans a body of water called the Golden Horn. There are people fishing on the top and it has a ton of seafood restaurants on the bottom. This is a good place to watch the sunset.

Night shot of Galata Bridge with Galata Tower and the seafood restaurants

Fishing on Galata Bridge

Sunset shot of Galata Bridge

Definitely try the stuffed mussels that are littered all around this area. They are the best food in the world.

Delicious stuffed mussels in Istanbul

11. Galata Tower is on Karakoy side. After you cross Galata Bridge, just keep aiming towards the large tower which you will see peaking above the rooftops. When it becomes obscured by other buildings, follow the signs that will take you there. It is a 13 lira entrance fee and it was a 30 minute wait for us to get to the top. This is a spectacular place to watch the sunset for the 360 view it offers. Make sure to get there with plenty of time to spare. An hour before sunset should give you enough time to maneuver your way around the top.

Signs on the way to Galata Tower from Galata Bridge

Galata Tower! The first picture of this post is the view from the top. Go early

Long line to get into Galata Tower for sunset. Took me 30 mins

12. Istiklal Street/Avenue links Galata Tower with Taksim Square. This is a really fun street with lots of bars, shops and restaurants. From Galata, just ask people for directions to get here.

Night shot of the beginning of Istiklal Street

That's it for a quick overview of the European side of Istanbul (barring Kadikoy). I managed to do all this is about three days although you could probably squeeze it into two or even spread it out to four. There are plenty of other museums and sights to see, so if none of these interest you, just do a little research. 

Good luck and have fun!

Street art in Istanbul