A Snapshot of Lhasa

 

Monks in a department store. Clearly making some prayer rounds.

 The majority of articles on Tibet are filled with burgundy-robed monks silently twirling handheld prayer wheels. In a red columned assembly hall, they sit cross-legged on worn red pillows as shafts of light stream down from the rafters. Atop buildings and connecting pillars, prayer flags flutter in the wind as the faded yellows and greens contrast sharply with the piercing blue of the sky. Outside saffron stained temples, faithful adherents garbed in dull black and brown chupas prostrate themselves in front of statured gods. Palms together in prayer, they swing their arms from their forehead to their chest before gingerly falling to their knees and lying face down on the dusty, stone floor. After a moment of stillness, they get up and start the process over again. Staring out at this show of faith, wide-eyed deities with finely arched eyebrows sit with silky white prayer scarves draped around their shoulders and laps. Some faces are painted gold, others red or blue, as their hands grasp various instruments wrought in brass. The snarling faces of a few protector deities are covered up since they are deemed too terrifying to behold. During special occasions, the coverings are removed from their faces, revealing bulging eyes and fangs sprouting from grimacing mouths. Some of these deities sit astride various steeds as they trample demons whose bodies are pinned to the ground. Lining the front of these beings are iron troughs that look blue in the lighting. Hammered designs can be seen twining around the bases. The pungent smell of yak butter and burned juniper wreathe any who approach the twinkling of the lit altars. Pools formed in the soft, off-white wax landscape reflect serried rows of tiny flames. The flames dance, flickering and twisting whenever the faithful dribble liquid butter onto cratered mounds. Others use spoons to flick clumps of solid butter which create mountains surrounding the lakes encircling the flames. Waves of people pass through the various chapels and murmured prayers create a soothing lull that fills the air.

This is the classical image of Tibet, but Lhasa today is a burgeoning metropolis. Branching out from the walls of the temples, winding white walled streets give way to wide paved roads. Cars swerve around darting pedestrians while pedestrians weave around cars parked on sidewalks. Dogs of all shapes and sizes, in various states of uncleanliness, navigate through vehicles and people with their tongues happily lolling. Some have tinkling bells, while others are adorned with ratty red mane collars, which transform even the smallest Lhasa Apso into a fierce, albeit adorable, snow lion. In addition to multi-colored, tarp covered market stalls, department stores glitter with polished floors and bright fluorescent lights. Tibetan women hawking neon yellow blocks of yak butter contrast with manicured saleswomen displaying the latest brand name perfumes and make up. Those same burgundy robed monks stroll through the lanes between clothing sections, chatting on their cellphones. Street-side dentist stalls with rusted, peeling signs advertising gold emblazoned teeth are eclipsed by three-story centers with dental chairs and sterile equipment. Heaps of white curd, dried meats, and fungi compete with well-stocked supermarkets filled with plastic sealed soy sauce eggs and knock-off Oreos. 

No matter where you go in the world, you will never be able to escape dogs dressed in cute clothes.

Backpacks and leopard print are for all activities.

Skateboards galore!

The central tourist hub of Lhasa is the Barkhor, a wide-ranging market that sprawls around the Jokhang Temple. Armed with giant cameras with even larger lenses, packs of international and domestic visitors roam between stacks of thangka paintings and turquoise jewelry. Swept up in the clockwise tide of practitioners that circumambulate the Jokhang, visitors find it hard to leave. There are tons of restaurants, sites, and shops within this maze, so barring trips to major sites outside of this area, most tourists only see one side of Lhasa. Neglecting the rest of this rapidly expanding city is unfortunate since it has so much more to offer. Take, for example, cuisine. There are food stalls and tea houses everywhere. While these offer tasty fare, there are tons of other restaurants in the city that are overlooked. One such is called Hot Space. It is a hotpot restaurant that is renowned among the local Chinese and Tibetan population, but very rarely frequented by tourists. There is usually a wait. To keep patrons entertained, a row of computers boast the addictive game Plants versus Zombies. Waitresses even bring cups of juice so that those waiting will be hydrated for the spice. When ordering, the staff is incredibly helpful and will offer suggestions. This is very important since the menu is entirely in Mandarin. Due to the dearth of foreigners, it’s possible that the meal will end with singing and a flurry of white prayer scarves. This is just one of the many experiences awaiting tourists who explore outside the norm.

Dico's replaces McDonald's as the fast food of choice.

Prime hotpot goodness.

Lhasa is in the midst of industrial, cultural, and technological development. The giant St. Regis Hotel resort occupies an entire block, and it’s not even a small block. Likewise, a Four Seasons Hotel has also sprung up with a fancy restaurant that serves Hong Kong delicacies. There is also a large computer center with a roller skating rink on the top floor. While historical sites like the Potala Palace and Drepung Monastery should be the focus of any traveler’s sojourn to Lhasa, exploring the more modern areas is well worth the time. There is nothing like walking past the daunting walls surrounding St. Regis, straining to gain a glimpse inside while, on your other side, stalls are filled with yak carcasses. Meanwhile, children of all ages, who never tire of seeing foreign faces, will good-naturedly call out “hello” as they pass by with baseball caps balanced precariously on the tops of their heads. Playboy stores are couched between dry cleaners and tea houses where Tibetan men in fedoras sit outside playing various games with tiles. Part of the charm of Lhasa is seeing this unique mixture of cultures and experiencing the growth of a city firsthand. Lhasa cannot be limited to a single perspective and travelers should take the new with the old. 

Technology surrounds the ancient Potala Palace.

Globalism at its best.