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| Hong Kong lit up |
Introduction
Hong Kong is one of my absolute favourite places in the world. I was born there and I have been back every single year of my life. During my uprooted childhood, Hong Kong was one of the points of stability that I could always hold on to. In fact, Hong Kong actually mimicked my life. In case you aren't familiar with the city, it is always changing. Stores that have been open for decades close and are filled with whoever can afford the rent. Hong Kong's landscape is ever shifting, to the extent that the water dividing Hong Kong island and Kowloon side has gotten noticeably smaller. Whenever I went back, I used to hope that none of my favourite stores disappeared without a trace, sinking under the crushing weight of rising real estate prices.
Especially when I was living in New Delhi, Hong Kong was always a respite. All of a sudden I didn't need to worry about food poisoning, I could walk around malls and the streets on my own (or more often with my brother), and it was a shopping mecca. I remember before visiting that my brother and I used to joke and say we would kiss the tarmac upon arriving at the airport.
Since I only got to visit in one-to-two week bursts, I only ever visited the same places over and over again. This included Wong Sut Bo (Windsor House in Causeway Bay), all other areas of Causeway Bay, Hup Wo (Hopewell Centre in Wan Chai), Pacific Place Mall in Admiralty, Ladies Market in Mong Kok, Golden Arcade Centre in Sham Shui Po (for the video games), and Harbor City Mall in Tsim Tsa Tsui (it had the largest Toys R Us store).
When I finally got to live in Hong Kong for a whole year, I realized how much I had missed out on.
Since I was remiss in my childhood, I hope to help others who are planning a trip to Hong Kong. Here is a list of my absolute essentials for when you visit the glittering city. As far as I know, all of them are still around!
*Spoiler, Disneyland is not on here because I haven't been and I don't really have any interest in going. I have heard that it is really kiddy, so if you're into that, head on out.
I give a range of stuff to suit any budget!
1. Viewing the Nightly Light Show from the Fourth Floor of the IFC
The light show is kind of campy and if you sit in a restaurant that boasts its soundtrack, then you'll just hear some very imposing operatic booming. However, it is a different experience entirely to be sitting nestled at the base between the two IFC towers and watching the lasers shoot off into the sky. Combine this with the fact that this fourth floor has free sitting for everyone and you can't lose.
The IFC is a mall in Central and you can follow the towers or go on the sky walkway (it will have signs) or just walk through the
metro. The IFC has two towers and it was from these that Batman leaped in the movie The Dark Night. Once you get to the IFC, go to the fourth floor where
there is an outdoor area with a whole bunch of restaurants and bars (if
you can't find the escalator up, just look at the mall map).
There are
public seats that may look like they belong to an establishment but are
free seating. There will be signs on the tables and you will get a harbor view. Bring a picnic and some drinks and just relax and enjoy the evening. There is even a handy dandy City Super supermarket in the mall. If you really don't want to bring your own food, just head over to any of the restaurants and bars that litter the area and sip on some fancy cocktails. I have never really found it crowded and it is one of my favourite places to go in all of Hong Kong.
I am also going to put in a little plug for the greatest shortbread cookies I have ever tasted:
Jenny Bakery. While not actually located in the IFC, this is in Central and you had best get your grubby fingers on a box of these bad boys. I recommend not going before the holidays because the line is literally around the corner.
2. Star Ferry
You definitely
need to go on the Star Ferry. It is very inexpensive and it takes you from
Central to Tsim Tsa Tsui. There are a ton of other ferries that take you to other islands a little further, but if you want a nice view of the Hong Kong skyline, then I highly recommend this. Plus, Tsim Tsa Tsui has a nice little waterfront boardwalk when you arrive on the other side.
3. 1881 Heritage
Now that you've arrived on in TST, just walk straight (with your back to the sea/HK side) and you will run into 1881 Heritage. This is basically an old consulate that has been done up with fancy stores. What is really entertaining about this area is the amount of wedding pictures that get taken here. They literally have a line of bride and groom couples waiting their turn to take identical shots. Some of them have very creative dresses, so it is worth seeing. Plus it is just a pleasant area to be around.
4. Avenue of Stars
In keeping with the theme of the TST side, go to the Avenue of Stars next. This is technically in East TST, but you can walk from the main boardwalk or, if you don't want to risk getting lost, just head to the nearest metro station and follow the underground signs. You won't know most of the people listed but it has an iconic
image of Bruce Lee and it's free! The Starbucks on the waterfront
there is also pretty kickass.
5. Bulldog's Bar and Grill Garlic Spicy Chicken Wings
Now that you've worked up an appetite, you are ready for the greatest wings in the world. I know that is a bold claim but I have never tasted better. They are baked/grilled/roasted to almost crispy perfection and are served buried in a mound of fried garlic chips and hot pepper flakes. This was one of the happiest accidents I have ever had. I originally ordered the regular ranch wings and they brought these out by mistake. I have never been more thrilled by a messed up order. They are the ambrosia of the gods and I am actually salivating as I am typing this. I miss Hong Kong. This restaurant is located on a bar strip in East TST. You can get here via the metro (exit P2 from the East TST metro). It also kind of overlooks some water, so it is quite relaxing and lovely to hang out with a beer to accompany your wings. Here is the address:
Bulldog’s Bar & Grill Kowloon, Shop G5 & UG15, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong, Hong
and the phone number: 2311-6993
Seriously go try these wings, they are worth it!
6. Ladies Market
Continuing on the sights you should see on Kowloon side, head up to Mong Kok next. This is where the Ladies Market is (exit E2 in the metro, it's a bank exit, just head out and walk straight until you hit the stalls). Eat the street food/drink bubble
tea, etc. and walk and see if you want some campy souvenirs. Make sure to haggle if you want anything! Be warned that this area is also known for its stinky tofu, so if you're not a fan, cover your nose.
7. The Peak
Heading back over to the Hong Kong side, go up to the Peak. Definitely
take the tram up (you can get to it from one of the Central metro exits, just look at the map).
Try to go on a week day to beat the crowds, even in the afternoon, and just spend the day there. I personally think it is a
much prettier view at night since the city is just twinkly and lovely. There is a Sky Terrace ticket that you can purchase when you get your tram ticket. The observatory is at the very top of the building shaped kind of like a half moon. You don't have to pay for the Sky
Terrace, since there are actually a ton of different places to view the
city for free. The Sky Terrace is the highest point though and I don't
think it's very expensive if you just want to go ahead and do it.
I
usually make a reservation at Bubba Gumps since they are one of the
restaurants with window views of the skyline (make sure to emphasize you want a window view) and the food is tasty (especially That Chocolate Thing). Be warned that it isn't the cheapest
place on Earth but it makes for a nice night with some nice cocktails.
8. Dim Sum
YOU HAVE TO HAVE DIM SUM. Sorry for busting out the caps lock, but honestly, this is Hong Kong's food. There are a ton of restaurants that serve dim sum and they range from street fast foody types to fancy restaurants. I personally LOVE
Dragon King which is located in the World Trade Centre in Causeway Bay.
If
you make a reservation ahead (way ahead, like about a week if not more) you can get a harbor view. If you have never heard of dim sum (or have only tried knock off overseas versions), it is basically an afternoon meal where you are served a ton of appetizer-like foods. Some places have carts and others just paper menus where you mark off a ton of stuff.
Here are two tips: 1. If you go after 2:00, there is a discount. 2. If everything is only in Chinese, then ask the waiter to help you. Also, order Jasmine tea (heung peen) because it is awesome.
Definitely order:
3. Char Siu Bao (barbeque bun)
5. Gon chao ngau hor (flat noodles fried with beef): 干炒牛河
Another innovative dim sum restaurant is
Che's in Wan Chai.
9. Hong Kong Fast Food
A must-eat is wonton mein. Trust me, it is nothing like in the U.S. or any other country!
One of my favorite all time dishes. Order it with milk tea (dong nai
cha) or ice tea (dong ling cha). Just find a street noodle place and see
if they have it. Any other wonton pales in comparison.
You can also get cheap, good Cantonese fast food at Maxims or Cafe de Coral. These are everywhere. I always get the siu gnap (roast duck) while the Boy prefers char siu fan (BBQ pork rice).
10. Lan Kwai Fong
When
you go to Lan Kwai Fong (the bar district located in Central), and you will go to LKF, definitely head there on a Thursday if you are female since it is ladies night! Explore the bars and don't neglect the street that is behind the Hard Rock Cafe after you go up some stairs.
If you want a fantastic, out-of-this-world burger, try Gourmet
Burger Union. I think it is on Wyndham Street (the street that you walk
up these stairs to behind the Hard Rock Cafe). Also get an alcoholic milkshake, they are TASTY.
Blue Smoke BBQ is also great for their personal pies and they are located right across the street from the Hard Rock Cafe. If you are in the mood for German, head to Schnurrbart's which is located on one of the main strips as you walk up to LKF. Great food (I highly recommend their pork knuckle and the sausage platter) and be sure to give their beers a whirl.
Also, as per my post
The Kids Are Alright, a fun game to play in LKF (and Wan Chai) is spot the high schooler! These areas are riddled with them, so watch out if you are making a move and make sure that person is legal...
11. Soho
LFK is the party hard area of Hong Kong. If you want a place that is a bit classier, head up to SOHO. You can get there from Queen's Road Central (the main parallel road in Central) via the
longest escalator.
There is a great Greek restaurant called Rick's Greek Mezze Bar that I love to go to. You'll see it as you keep going up the escalators.
If you love cupcakes and cakes, head to
Vanilla (address in English:
33 Mosque St, Mid-Levels, Hong Kong, Hong Kong). It is actually located in the Mid-Levels, which is further up than SOHO, but they are out of this world. Creamy, melty, and utterly decadent, you won't regret hunting these bad boys down.
12. Causeway Bay/Victoria Park/Chocolate
One of the big tourist/shopping centers is Causeway Bay. It even has a Times Square! The California Pizza Kitchen's Tiramisu is ridiculously good and it is located on one of the top levels of Times Square. Times Square also has a lot of exhibits that they show outside or in the entrance, so go give a look see.
Also go to Victoria Park and just take a picnic. If you go to the basement floor of Windsor House (the mall that is on
the right just before you get to the park when walking from the metro. They have an
International supermarket with little sandwiches and wraps and sushi). You should also keep track of whether or not there are any festivals when you go to Hong Kong since they tend to have events at Victoria Park. For the Mid Autumn festival they have lanterns and a nice outdoor booth area. During the winter months they always have an expo and they also do an event for Chinese New Year.
A little tip for two exquisite chocolate shops around this area:
1.
Thomas Trillion is a chocolate shop that is actually located in Tin Hau (just walk across the park and you'll be in Tin Hau). It is ridiculously amazing and you won't actually want to eat the chocolate because they are so beautiful.
2.
Paul Lafayet is a chocolate shop located in Windsor House. Their macaroons are ridiculously amazing and so is their Chocolate Craquelin.
If you want chocolate cake, then head over to
Awfully Chocolate for some tasty treats.
*13. Estudio Iberico: Best Tapas EVER
******
Must do: I cannot stress how much you need to go visit
Estudio Iberico. It is located in the Great supermarket in Pacific Place mall in Admiralty. Definitely
order their sangria, which is amazing, and their flan. I love their salad with
cheese and jamon. Also, make sure to order their Oscar Seafood Soup, it is
to die for. It is a creation of one of the chefs and you won't find it any where else. The food is exquisite and the servers are great. It is also quite unique in that you sit at bar stools. GO!
14. Happy Valley Evening Horse Races
If you are in HK for a Wednesday, go to the horse
races. There is a track just on the outskirts of Causeway Bay/Happy
Valley. It is only a 10hkd entrance and you can get beer and just chill. The races are only on Wednesday evenings and the whole experience is a ton of fun. I wrote a blog post about this called
Happy Valley Race Track: Beer, Gambling, and Horses.
15. Tian Tan Buddha
If you have the time, then I recommend that you head out to the
Tian Tan Buddha (this post also talks about Macau and Temple Street, which I didn't include on this list. It is located at the Jordan metro stop). It is a giant Buddha and you get to take a cable car to go see it. Basically take the metro all the way to Tung Chung Station and head for Ngong Ping 360. Even though I had a foggy experience, it was a lot of fun.
16. Ocean Park
If you have kids, go to Ocean Park. It's a lot of fun, and even if you have some teens there are roller coasters. If you are in Hong Kong for Halloween, then you might want to consider the annual
Ocean Park Halloween Bash. Be warned, as I state in my post, that there are a ton of haunted houses, so if that isn't your thing, either avoid Ocean Park or try to purchase this special necklace that leaves you exempt from scares (I couldn't find it to buy it...).
17. Gigantic Oysters
If you are an oyster connoisseur, then you need to go to
Fusion Gourmet in Sheung Wan. Get the Black Diamonds because they are massive, but not too salty. I cannot get enough of these! This is a deli as well as a restaurant (although I wasn't impressed with the main dishes) and they have an extensive wine collection. Head to the first floor for the deli since the fifth floor is an actual restaurant that is fancy. Don't confuse the two!
18. Le Blanc Wan Chai
If you want a fancy, elegant meal, head to
Le Blanc in Wan Chai. Basically it has a minimum charge per person, but you get to order as much as you like so that you get to try a ton of stuff while still keeping it at a reasonable price. This is a terrific, romantic restaurant and I highly recommend it. I ended up going with my coworkers, so the romance was muted, but I plan on going back with the Boy some day!
19. Wan Chai Lockhart Road
Having already listed LKF and SOHO, the other bar area (other than TST, which I am not as familiar with) is Wan Chai's Lockhart Road. This is the seedy party zone of Hong Kong. While this is a very long road, if you tell any cab driver "Lockhart Street", they will take you to this one specific area of bars and girly bars. Yes, there are strip clubs here and you can purchase some entertainment if you wish.
Ladies night here is Wednesday and it can be a lot of fun to go out with a group of friends. Just watch out for all the old white expats (they even have a bar called the White Stag) and you'll be golden!
20. ICC - Tallest Building in Hong Kong/Ozone Bar
Last, but certainly not least, is the ICC which is the tallest building in Hong Kong. It is located on Kowloon side (it is in Kowloon Station, in fact. You can get here by taking the metro line that heads out to the airport and Disneyland) and it is worth visiting.
There is a 360 observatory tower which actually gives you the heights of all the other world's tallest buildings. It isn't at the top, but you are pretty high up there. It is a rather more expensive ticket but you can stay up there as long as you like. Plus the elevator goes up ridiculously fast, if you're into that.
The ICC also boasts the tallest bar in the world:
Ozone Bar. It is in the Ritz-Carlton, but it actually has its own set of elevators. Very fancy and definitely a place to bring a date you want to impress. I still prefer the IFC and its free fourth floor view, but I will definitely give Ozone the edge in drinks (experiment with what they have to offer) and creative food.
The End
I hope you have stuck with me through this list. There are a ton of places that I don't have on here (restaurants, mostly) and Hong Kong offers a lot. I love Hong Kong and think it is one of the most fabulous cities in the world. Yes, I even prefer it to Manhattan (it is like Manhattan wrapped around a mountain) since it is more compact and easier for me to navigate around.
It also boasts what I think is the most extensive and convenient transportation system in the world. I hope you enjoyed this list and that you have a great time exploring this city. Feel free to add stuff that you think I shouldn't have missed in the comments!
