The Must Do List for Hong Kong

Hong Kong lit up

Head over to the Unsettled TCK Gallery for more pictures.

Introduction

Hong Kong is one of my absolute favourite places in the world. I was born there and I have been back every single year of my life. During my uprooted childhood, Hong Kong was one of the points of stability that I could always hold on to. In fact, Hong Kong actually mimicked my life. In case you aren't familiar with the city, it is always changing. Stores that have been open for decades close and are filled with whoever can afford the rent. Hong Kong's landscape is ever shifting, to the extent that the water dividing Hong Kong island and Kowloon side has gotten noticeably smaller. Whenever I went back, I used to hope that none of my favourite stores disappeared without a trace, sinking under the crushing weight of rising real estate prices. 

Especially when I was living in New Delhi, Hong Kong was always a respite. All of a sudden I didn't need to worry about food poisoning, I could walk around malls and the streets on my own (or more often with my brother), and it was a shopping mecca. I remember before visiting that my brother and I used to joke and say we would kiss the tarmac upon arriving at the airport. 

Since I only got to visit in one-to-two week bursts, I only ever visited the same places over and over again. This included Wong Sut Bo (Windsor House in Causeway Bay), all other areas of Causeway Bay, Hup Wo (Hopewell Centre in Wan Chai), Pacific Place Mall in Admiralty, Ladies Market in Mong Kok, Golden Arcade Centre in Sham Shui Po (for the video games), and Harbor City Mall in Tsim Tsa Tsui (it had the largest Toys R Us store). When I finally got to live in Hong Kong for a whole year, I realized how much I had missed out on. 

Since I was remiss in my childhood, I hope to help others who are planning a trip to Hong Kong. Here is a list of my absolute essentials for when you visit the glittering city. As far as I know, all of them are still around! 

*Spoiler, Disneyland is not on here because I haven't been and I don't really have any interest in going. I have heard that it is really kiddy, so if you're into that, head on out.

I give a range of stuff to suit any budget!

 1. Viewing the Nightly Light Show from the Fourth Floor of the IFC

The light show is kind of campy and if you sit in a restaurant that boasts its soundtrack, then you'll just hear some very imposing operatic booming. However, it is a different experience entirely to be sitting nestled at the base between the two IFC towers and watching the lasers shoot off into the sky. Combine this with the fact that this fourth floor has free sitting for everyone and you can't lose.

The IFC is a mall in Central and you can follow the towers or go on the sky walkway (it will have signs) or just walk through the metro. The IFC has two towers and it was from these that Batman leaped in the movie The Dark Night. Once you get to the IFC, go to the fourth floor where there is an outdoor area with a whole bunch of restaurants and bars (if you can't find the escalator up, just look at the mall map). 

There are public seats that may look like they belong to an establishment but are free seating. There will be signs on the tables and you will get a harbor view. Bring a picnic and some drinks and just relax and enjoy the evening. There is even a handy dandy City Super supermarket in the mall. If you really don't want to bring your own food, just head over to any of the restaurants and bars that litter the area and sip on some fancy cocktails. I have never really found it crowded and it is one of my favourite places to go in all of Hong Kong. 

I am also going to put in a little plug for the greatest shortbread cookies I have ever tasted: Jenny Bakery. While not actually located in the IFC, this is in Central and you had best get your grubby fingers on a box of these bad boys. I recommend not going before the holidays because the line is literally around the corner.

2. Star Ferry

You definitely need to go on the Star Ferry. It is very inexpensive and it takes you from Central to Tsim Tsa Tsui. There are a ton of other ferries that take you to other islands a little further, but if you want a nice view of the Hong Kong skyline, then I highly recommend this. Plus, Tsim Tsa Tsui has a nice little waterfront boardwalk when you arrive on the other side. 

3. 1881 Heritage

Now that you've arrived on in TST, just walk straight (with your back to the sea/HK side) and you will run into 1881 Heritage. This is basically an old consulate that has been done up with fancy stores. What is really entertaining about this area is the amount of wedding pictures that get taken here. They literally have a line of bride and groom couples waiting their turn to take identical shots. Some of them have very creative dresses, so it is worth seeing. Plus it is just a pleasant area to be around.

Head over to the Unsettled TCK Gallery for more pictures. 

4. Avenue of Stars

In keeping with the theme of the TST side, go to the Avenue of Stars next. This is technically in East TST, but you can walk from the main boardwalk or, if you don't want to risk getting lost, just head to the nearest metro station and follow the underground signs. You won't know most of the people listed but it has an iconic image of Bruce Lee and it's free! The Starbucks on the waterfront there is also pretty kickass.

5. Bulldog's Bar and Grill Garlic Spicy Chicken Wings

Now that you've worked up an appetite, you are ready for the greatest wings in the world. I know that is a bold claim but I have never tasted better. They are baked/grilled/roasted to almost crispy perfection and are served buried in a mound of fried garlic chips and hot pepper flakes. This was one of the happiest accidents I have ever had. I originally ordered the regular ranch wings and they brought these out by mistake. I have never been more thrilled by a messed up order. They are the ambrosia of the gods and I am actually salivating as I am typing this. I miss Hong Kong. This restaurant is located on a bar strip in East TST. You can get here via the metro (exit P2 from the East TST metro). It also kind of overlooks some water, so it is quite relaxing and lovely to hang out with a beer to accompany your wings. Here is the address:

 Bulldog’s Bar & Grill Kowloon, Shop G5 & UG15, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong, Hong 

and the phone number: 2311-6993

Seriously go try these wings, they are worth it!

6. Ladies Market

Continuing on the sights you should see on Kowloon side, head up to Mong Kok next. This is where the Ladies Market is (exit E2 in the metro, it's a bank exit, just head out and walk straight until you hit the stalls). Eat the street food/drink bubble tea, etc. and walk and see if you want some campy souvenirs. Make sure to haggle if you want anything! Be warned that this area is also known for its stinky tofu, so if you're not a fan, cover your nose.   

7. The Peak

Heading back over to the Hong Kong side, go up to the Peak. Definitely take the tram up (you can get to it from one of the Central metro exits, just look at the map). Try to go on a week day to beat the crowds, even in the afternoon, and just spend the day there. I personally think it is a much prettier view at night since the city is just twinkly and lovely. There is a Sky Terrace ticket that you can purchase when you get your tram ticket. The observatory is at the very top of the building shaped kind of like a half moon. You don't have to pay for the Sky Terrace, since there are actually a ton of different places to view the city for free. The Sky Terrace is the highest point though and I don't think it's very expensive if you just want to go ahead and do it.

I usually make a reservation at Bubba Gumps since they are one of the restaurants with window views of the skyline (make sure to emphasize you want a window view) and the food is tasty (especially That Chocolate Thing). Be warned that it isn't the cheapest place on Earth but it makes for a nice night with some nice cocktails.

Head over to the Unsettled TCK Gallery for more pictures. 

8. Dim Sum

YOU HAVE TO HAVE DIM SUM. Sorry for busting out the caps lock, but honestly, this is Hong Kong's food. There are a ton of restaurants that serve dim sum and they range from street fast foody types to fancy restaurants. I personally LOVE Dragon King which is located in the World Trade Centre in Causeway Bay.

If you make a reservation ahead (way ahead, like about a week if not more) you can get a harbor view. If you have never heard of dim sum (or have only tried knock off overseas versions), it is basically an afternoon meal where you are served a ton of appetizer-like foods. Some places have carts and others just paper menus where you mark off a ton of stuff.  

Here are two tips: 1. If you go after 2:00, there is a discount. 2. If everything is only in Chinese, then ask the waiter to help you. Also, order Jasmine tea (heung peen) because it is awesome.  

Definitely order: 

1. Har (shrimp, pronounced "ha") gow (dumplings)

2. Har (pronounced "ha") Cheong (Shrimp rice noodle roll)

3. Char Siu Bao (barbeque bun)

4. Law bak go 

5. Gon chao ngau hor (flat noodles fried with beef): 干炒牛河

Another innovative dim sum restaurant is Che's in Wan Chai. 

9. Hong Kong Fast Food

A must-eat is wonton mein. Trust me, it is nothing like in the U.S. or any other country! One of my favorite all time dishes. Order it with milk tea (dong nai cha) or ice tea (dong ling cha). Just find a street noodle place and see if they have it. Any other wonton pales in comparison. 

You can also get cheap, good Cantonese fast food at Maxims or Cafe de Coral. These are everywhere. I always get the siu gnap (roast duck) while the Boy prefers char siu fan (BBQ pork rice). 

10. Lan Kwai Fong

When you go to Lan Kwai Fong (the bar district located in Central), and you will go to LKF, definitely head there on a Thursday if you are female since it is ladies night! Explore the bars and don't neglect the street that is behind the Hard Rock Cafe after you go up some stairs. 

If you want a fantastic, out-of-this-world burger, try Gourmet Burger Union. I think it is on Wyndham Street (the street that you walk up these stairs to behind the Hard Rock Cafe). Also get an alcoholic milkshake, they are TASTY.

Blue Smoke BBQ is also great for their personal pies and they are located right across the street from the Hard Rock Cafe. If you are in the mood for German, head to Schnurrbart's which is located on one of the main strips as you walk up to LKF. Great food (I highly recommend their pork knuckle and the sausage platter) and be sure to give their beers a whirl.

Also, as per my post The Kids Are Alright, a fun game to play in LKF (and Wan Chai) is spot the high schooler! These areas are riddled with them, so watch out if you are making a move and make sure that person is legal...

11. Soho

LFK is the party hard area of Hong Kong. If you want a place that is a bit classier, head up to SOHO. You can get there from Queen's Road Central (the main parallel road in Central) via the longest escalator.

There is a great Greek restaurant called Rick's Greek Mezze Bar that I love to go to. You'll see it as you keep going up the escalators.

If you love cupcakes and cakes, head to Vanilla (address in English: 33 Mosque St, Mid-Levels, Hong Kong, Hong Kong). It is actually located in the Mid-Levels, which is further up than SOHO, but they are out of this world. Creamy, melty, and utterly decadent, you won't regret hunting these bad boys down.

12. Causeway Bay/Victoria Park/Chocolate

One of the big tourist/shopping centers is Causeway Bay. It even has a Times Square! The California Pizza Kitchen's Tiramisu is ridiculously good and it is located on one of the top levels of Times Square. Times Square also has a lot of exhibits that they show outside or in the entrance, so go give a look see. 

Also go to Victoria Park and just take a picnic. If you go to the basement floor of Windsor House (the mall that is on the right just before you get to the park when walking from the metro. They have an International supermarket with little sandwiches and wraps and sushi). You should also keep track of whether or not there are any festivals when you go to Hong Kong since they tend to have events at Victoria Park. For the Mid Autumn festival they have lanterns and a nice outdoor booth area. During the winter months they always have an expo and they also do an event for Chinese New Year.

Head over to the Unsettled TCK Gallery for more pictures. 

A little tip for two exquisite chocolate shops around this area:

1. Thomas Trillion is a chocolate shop that is actually located in Tin Hau (just walk across the park and you'll be in Tin Hau). It is ridiculously amazing and you won't actually want to eat the chocolate because they are so beautiful.

2. Paul Lafayet is a chocolate shop located in Windsor House. Their macaroons are ridiculously amazing and so is their Chocolate Craquelin.

If you want chocolate cake, then head over to Awfully Chocolate for some tasty treats.

*13. Estudio Iberico: Best Tapas EVER

****** Must do: I cannot stress how much you need to go visit Estudio Iberico. It is located in the Great supermarket in Pacific Place mall in Admiralty. Definitely order their sangria, which is amazing, and their flan. I love their salad with cheese and jamon. Also, make sure to order their Oscar Seafood Soup, it is to die for. It is a creation of one of the chefs and you won't find it any where else. The food is exquisite and the servers are great. It is also quite unique in that you sit at bar stools. GO!

14. Happy Valley Evening Horse Races

If you are in HK for a Wednesday, go to the horse races. There is a track just on the outskirts of Causeway Bay/Happy Valley. It is only a 10hkd entrance and you can get beer and just chill. The races are only on Wednesday evenings and the whole experience is a ton of fun. I wrote a blog post about this called Happy Valley Race Track: Beer, Gambling, and Horses.

Click here for the schedule. 

15. Tian Tan Buddha

If you have the time, then I recommend that you head out to the Tian Tan Buddha (this post also talks about Macau and Temple Street, which I didn't include on this list. It is located at the Jordan metro stop). It is a giant Buddha and you get to take a cable car to go see it. Basically take the metro all the way to Tung Chung Station and head for Ngong Ping 360. Even though I had a foggy experience, it was a lot of fun. 

16. Ocean Park

If you have kids, go to Ocean Park. It's a lot of fun, and even if you have some teens there are roller coasters. If you are in Hong Kong for Halloween, then you might want to consider the annual Ocean Park Halloween Bash. Be warned, as I state in my post, that there are a ton of haunted houses, so if that isn't your thing, either avoid Ocean Park or try to purchase this special necklace that leaves you exempt from scares (I couldn't find it to buy it...).

Head over to the Unsettled TCK Gallery for more pictures. 

17. Gigantic Oysters

If you are an oyster connoisseur, then you need to go to Fusion Gourmet in Sheung Wan. Get the Black Diamonds because they are massive, but not too salty. I cannot get enough of these! This is a deli as well as a restaurant (although I wasn't impressed with the main dishes) and they have an extensive wine collection. Head to the first floor for the deli since the fifth floor is an actual restaurant that is fancy. Don't confuse the two!

18. Le Blanc Wan Chai

If you want a fancy, elegant meal, head to Le Blanc in Wan Chai. Basically it has a minimum charge per person, but you get to order as much as you like so that you get to try a ton of stuff while still keeping it at a reasonable price. This is a terrific, romantic restaurant and I highly recommend it. I ended up going with my coworkers, so the romance was muted, but I plan on going back with the Boy some day!

19. Wan Chai Lockhart Road

Having already listed LKF and SOHO, the other bar area (other than TST, which I am not as familiar with) is Wan Chai's Lockhart Road. This is the seedy party zone of Hong Kong. While this is a very long road, if you tell any cab driver "Lockhart Street", they will take you to this one specific area of bars and girly bars. Yes, there are strip clubs here and you can purchase some entertainment if you wish. 

Ladies night here is Wednesday and it can be a lot of fun to go out with a group of friends. Just watch out for all the old white expats (they even have a bar called the White Stag) and you'll be golden!

20. ICC - Tallest Building in Hong Kong/Ozone Bar

Last, but certainly not least, is the ICC which is the tallest building in Hong Kong. It is located on Kowloon side (it is in Kowloon Station, in fact. You can get here by taking the metro line that heads out to the airport and Disneyland) and it is worth visiting.

There is a 360 observatory tower which actually gives you the heights of all the other world's tallest buildings. It isn't at the top, but you are pretty high up there. It is a rather more expensive ticket but you can stay up there as long as you like. Plus the elevator goes up ridiculously fast, if you're into that.

The ICC also boasts the tallest bar in the world: Ozone Bar. It is in the Ritz-Carlton, but it actually has its own set of elevators. Very fancy and definitely a place to bring a date you want to impress. I still prefer the IFC and its free fourth floor view, but I will definitely give Ozone the edge in drinks (experiment with what they have to offer) and creative food.

The End

I hope you have stuck with me through this list. There are a ton of places that I don't have on here (restaurants, mostly) and Hong Kong offers a lot. I love Hong Kong and think it is one of the most fabulous cities in the world. Yes, I even prefer it to Manhattan (it is like Manhattan wrapped around a mountain) since it is more compact and easier for me to navigate around. 

It also boasts what I think is the most extensive and convenient transportation system in the world. I hope you enjoyed this list and that you have a great time exploring this city. Feel free to add stuff that you think I shouldn't have missed in the comments!

Head over to the Unsettled TCK Gallery for more pictures. 

Tears and Halloween at Ocean Park

*To see more pictures head over to: Unsettled TCK Gallery*

*Note: Most of the rides and attractions in Ocean Park during Halloween are Haunted Houses. Also performers will just wander up and randomly scare you. BE WARNED! I didn't know and I felt like I walked into a terrifying scare trap. Also, if you only want to read about Halloween at Ocean Park, skip down since it starts halfway down the page under the obvious heading "Halloween."*

*Also, if you can't be bothered to read everything: BUY THE MOST EXPENSIVE TICKET. You can either choose the Privilege Ticket or the Privilege Ticket Dinner Combo and both of these give you VIP access to bypass the lines. It gets really crowded and you will definitely get your money's worth. The Boy managed to go through every single haunted house (I opted out a couple of times) while most people without the VIP only get to see a couple.*

*This was written in October 2010 and published November 2010*

Personal Update 

So, it's been about a month and I've been remiss in my updating of this blog! So I'll be sure to do a good written update as well as a photo one.

In the last month, I have been to the Philippines and back, played zombie laser tag, and by far and away the greatest accomplishment: I've made four children cry (don't worry, karma got me back by making me cry at Ocean Park). I will take credit for two of the tear sessions but the other two were due to sheer grumpiness on their part (by the way, there were two girls and two boys who shed some of them tears)! It's good to know that I have the capacity to be strict, although I always feel terrible about it and end up undoing all my hard work by capitulating to the children.

My cherry was popped when I made a little boy cry because I changed his participation from a happy smiley to a frowny one. So much for that whole boys are tougher than girls bit! There was even a younger girl in the class who was sweet and kept saying, "don't cry, you're a big boy now." This is in retrospect quite humorous but at the time I felt like the devil.

Then a couple of weeks later this same little girl cried on me! I swear this wasn't from anything I was doing. I was merely showing her how to create spaces between words by measuring by her finger when all of a sudden she burst out yelling, "MAMA MAMA MAMA!" Then the waterworks began. I spent about twenty minutes with her on my lap reassuring her that I could be trusted and that I would never yell at her.

The third was a devil child who is very similar to the character Constance Contraire in the series The Mysterious Benedict Society. She likewise started to bawl upon a simple request to read a five word sentence.

The fourth I will take credit for. This actually really made me feel bad because he is a good kid but he became a bit of a bully. He wrote a story about another boy in class and how naughty and greedy that boy was. When I told him explicitly he couldn't, he changed the name by changing the first letter of the kid's first, middle, and last name.... Not the most crafty. I pulled him aside for a private chat and that started him going. I think it's all remedied now, I pulled the whole, "You are one of the leaders in class and leaders aren't bullies."

Hopefully that will be the last of that for awhile!

Halloween

*Keep in mind that there are different attractions every year, so check the official website to see what you can expect.*   

Ocean Park Hong Kong during Halloween

Halloween was a blast! Every year Ocean Park puts on a Halloween Bash, changing the theme to suit whatever new fad is going on. The year I went it was all about Chinese Hell and the darkest depths of the underworld. If you are looking for a real treat then head over to Ocean Park and I guarantee that it will be a night to remember.

I will preface this by saying that I absolutely hate haunted houses. I'm sorry but I derive no pleasure from having people jump out and yell loudly in my face. This will happen constantly during the evening. If this floats your boat, then have fun. If it doesn't, then there are some other attractions that you can occupy your time with. The saving grace of the night was a combination of The Dragon roller coaster, zombie laser tag, and the Boy winning a ton of stuffed animal prizes.

My consolation prizes at Ocean Park Halloween

Basically, Halloween at Ocean Park is like a scare-for-all. You're not even safe in the streets because performers will randomly wander up to the person in front of you, stare vacantly and eerily before leaping out at you. There are areas where the terrifying wanderers are not allowed to go and I looked forward to walking in them. If this sort of thing really bothers you, there is supposedly an amulet you can wear that tells people to leave you alone. I never found it, unfortunately. Also, places that might not seem like haunted houses really are. Make sure you look closely at the map that you will be provided. It tells you what type of attraction that you are heading into. At one point we thought an advertised vampire club was an actual club/bar but no, it just ended up being yet another haunted house.

Right before this picture was taken he freaked me out during Ocean Park Halloween

The outside of one of the Haunted Houses at Ocean Park

This was the outside of the first haunted house we went to. It was based off of a movie that I did not see because I was too scared

One of the highlights of my night was zombie laser tag. It was awesome because it distracted me from those who were trying to scare the living daylights out of me. I was so focused on getting points that the zombies only irritated me because they got in the way. I place my survival skills fairly high in a zombie apocalypse because my aim is pretty sharp. I even got the highest score in my group and I might have had more if not for a zombie that came up and started to tickle me by using his plastic knife to slice at my neck and back (yes, they actually touched you in these houses but it was usually limited to a light brush against the arm). Also, the zombies were more concerned with trying to fire at you than scare you, so it was a win-win for all.

Blurry outside shot of the laser tag arena in Ocean Park Halloween

I will say one thing in favor of the haunted houses: they are creative. Some of them are your run-of-the-mill creepy setting with creepy figures rocking insanely in the corner and lurking around you. Then there are others that really take the art of displaying a haunted house to the next level. When I went in October 2010 there was a really interesting ride where instead of walking through, you were sent through in a coffin on a conveyor belt. The scares came from the ceiling and from monsters on the side. It was simulating the stages of the afterlife if they go horribly wrong. Pretty creative. I had my eyes closed 99.9% of the time, so I can't really describe what was in there.

Also, I HIGHLY recommend taking the cable car at night. Ocean Park is divided into multiple levels that can be reached using a cable car. It is really beautiful and kind of eerie. And a good option if you need your heart to stop racing.

Cable cars in Ocean Park during Halloween

Beautiful, albeit blurry, view of the rest of Ocean Park from a moving cable car

There are also a ton of live performances that include singing, acting, and dance choreography. Honestly, the set for the choreographed dance club number was a bit better than the actual dancing but it was good to enjoy a drink and unwind from the scares.

To see more pictures head over to: Unsettled TCK Gallery

Impressive stage and slightly better than mediocre dancers at Ocean Park Halloween

One of the more impressive feats from dancers at Ocean Park Halloween

I opted for the dinner combo ticket and in terms of the food, it was not bad. Not the greatest of culinary fare in Hong Kong but definitely satisfying. We had to pick a dinner period to go to and we chose a later one. We figured we would get most of the rides out of the way rather than risking an upset stomach in our fear.

One of the dining halls at Ocean Park Halloween

Great menu presentation at Ocean Park Halloween

Finally all of the regular rides such as roller coasters and those ones that drop you from a tremendous height continue to run. They are also beautifully lit and the view from the Dragon roller coaster was quite spectacular. There are also the regular carnival games where you can win stuffed animals and prizes. However, even in these areas there are still pathways that are "haunted" and you will have to watch out for jumpy-outy-performers.

To see more pictures head over to: Unsettled TCK Gallery

View from the Dragon roller coaster at Ocean Park Halloween

If you were on the fence about whether or not to go, I really think you should give it a try. It is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, unless you live in Hong Kong in which case there is always next year.

To see more pictures head over to: Unsettled TCK Gallery

Top 10 Hong Konger Quirks

Having already done Top Ten Lhasa Quirks and Top Ten TCK Quirks, I am moving on to the Top Ten Hong Konger quirks! I have been waiting on this post for awhile because honestly, it's hard to see the forest for the trees. By that I mean that I was born in Hong Kong and have visited every single year I was alive before finally living there for a year last year. Because of this, it is hard for me to differentiate between peculiar traits and what I would consider normal, non-eyebrow-raising behavior. I enlisted the help of the Boy and a friend and the following list is a mix of us:

1. Food

Hong Kongers are OBSESSED with food. I have never known any other culture (not Indian, not Italian) that is THAT obsessed with all things culinary. While they are eating, Hong Kongers will actively discuss the next meal(s) that they plan on having.  

So much hotpot goodness

Within this food category, Hong Kongers were taking pictures of food and sharing it WAY before Instagram came out. A couple of years ago if you saw an Asian person taking a phone photo of their food, chances were it was a Hong Konger.

I am guilty of this...

Greatest chicken wings in the world. The spicy garlic wings at Bulldogs in Tsim Tsa Tsui!

2. "ar" or "lor" or "la" or "aiya"

Cantonese speakers love adding extraneous meaningless sounds at the end of sentences. This even translates into typing and texting. "Aiya" is one I grew up hearing from my mom whenever the slightest thing went wrong. Here are examples that I took from my friends' Facebooks (thanks guys!). Keep in mind that these are meaningless sounds added to make the sentence flow better:

"more likely advertising for 'kai-ness' lor..."

"kekekeke hubby already la kekekeke"

 "Aiya! Forgot cannot eat beef"

You get the idea.  

3.  Being direct about weight

I'd say Indians do this too but I cannot tell you how many times I have gone back to HK and heard this:


"You are too fat! You gained so much weight since the last time I saw you, what happened?!"

But at dinner it switches to this:

"Why aren't you eating more?! You are too thin and you need to eat more food!"

These aren't even meant to be insulting. Actually declarations of this sort are supposed to show loving care.

4. Superficiality

This is not meant to be derogatory but Hong Kongers love their looks. They love dressing well and they love status and money. Of course the centers of this are Central, Admiralty, Causeway Bay and Tsim Tsa Tsui (to an extent, TST is a bit more seedy).  There are just in your face no-bones-about-it consumerism. Advertisements abound and man do Hong Kongers live up life if they have the means.

You can argue that plenty of other cities around the world have this as a quirk but I have never ever seen a city that has what are called Star Tutors. These tutoring kings are some of the wealthiest in HK because they market an image to high schoolers. While their actual job is getting these kids to pass the rigorous exam systems, their primary responsibility is style. They have to be "ying" (stylish and modern) to attract followers and that entails designer clothes (one woman has never repeated a piece of her wardrobe because she claims her students would notice and be unhappy), designer cuts, and a celebrity style pizazz.

Here are some articles if you don't believe me:

Hong Kong Star Tutors

Celebrity Tutors

5. Karaoke

Again, another quirk that could be applied across East Asia but Hong Kongers love their Karaoke with this very unique drink:

Whiskey (Johnnie Walker) mixed with green tea. Not the hot green tea with leaves but the green tea that comes in bottles that you can put in the fridge. It actually doesn't taste too bad.

BBQ/buffets are also a part of the KTV experience.

6. Weddings

Hong Kong weddings are a trip. I would say Indian ones are more elaborate but Hong Kong ones are definitely in the same ballpark. It will boggle your mind the hundreds of thousands of dollars (HK and US) and up that people will spend on banquet halls in hotels and restaurants.

My friend brought up this one: wedding pictures before the wedding. Hong Kongers love the wedding photos and they take full advantage of the sheer amount of money that is spent on dresses by using them as many times as possible. Thus the pre-wedding photo package where the bride will even wear her wedding dress for the shots.

I recently attended my boss's wedding and it was a whole day affair. Starting in the morning with games wherein the groom and his "brothers" (that is what they are called instead of groomsmen) have to get through the torturous games that we "sisters" (instead of bridesmaids) designed to test their fortitude. The games included bribery (they had to give us money in red pockets before we even let them through the door), eating questionable food while blindfolded and spoon feeding each other, recreating how two entwined stuffed animals fell with each other, fishing mini-mahjong tiles out of ice cold water with their toes... You get the idea. In case you have to ask, this was definitely the funnest part of the wedding!

Other notable Hong Kong wedding traditions include the tea ceremony where the bride and grooms families are served tea by the bride and groom and offered gold in exchange as well as the banquet. The banquet is a big deal because it involves food (see quirk #1) and because the guests get to get the bride and especially the groom hammered. The poor couple has to make the rounds to each table and do a cheers while draining a glass full of whiskey. Banquets usually have a lot of tables, you do the math.

They actually managed to get the mahjong tiles out!

7. Kids names

Hong Kongers give their kids the oddest names. Charms, Caesar, Creamy, Nympho, Crispina (not Christina)... the list goes on.

8. Yum cha (dim sum)


Going to yum cha (which is literally translated as "drink tea") is a group affair. You go with your family, you go with your friends and you sit for hours at a round table ordering long (the bamboo steamer baskets) after long of dim sum while drinking tea. This is the quintessential Hong Kong activity.


9. Filipino/Indonesian housekeepers


Most households in Hong Kong have at least one Filipino or Indonesian housekeeper. These same housekeepers also double as nannies/surrogate mothers to Hong Kong children. I wouldn't be surprised if this were Hong Kong's largest import commodity: household help.

If you really want to get an idea of how many Filipinos and Indonesians workers live in Hong Kong, just walk around anywhere on a Sunday and you will see them packed around stairwells, in overpasses and in Victoria Park enjoying an afternoon picnic with friends.


10. Death rites


The way to commemorate the dead in Hong Kong is to burn paper objects. The ash from these is supposed to float and transport them into the afterlife so that the deceased won't lack for any amenities. For my Grandfather's funeral we burned him a paper house, a paper sports car, and paper servants so that he would get the best of the best in afterlife comfort. You can also find paper Rolexes, IPods, IPhones, dress shirts, you name it.

While other cultures may burn incense, Hong Kongers take it to a whole new level.
 

Happy Valley Race Track: Beer, Gambling, and Horses

I was born in Hong Kong and have been back to visit pretty much every year of my life. When you have this sort of pattern with a city, you tend to want to visit the areas you are familiar with and won't see for a year. My brother and I stuck to Causeway Bay, TST, Mong Kok, and Sham Shui Po. These were the parts of the city where you used to be able to get bootleg games and movies (the government cracked down a few years ago and now pirated stuff is harder to find). However, in doing so, I missed out on a lot. 

This year, we decided to try something different and headed to the famous Happy Valley Race Track.

This was extremely convenient since our hotel, the Cosmopolitan, is located directly across from the course. Races at Happy Valley are only on Wednesday nights and traffic around the area can be dicey since roads are blocked off because of how large this event is. I saw this firsthand when I was heading back to my hotel later and a mass exodus was streaming onto the streets at 11:00PM. 

The Cosmopolitan Hotel

View from Happy Valley

As I headed over to the stadium, I didn't realize that the public entrance is at the complete opposite end of the area close to the hotel. It was a bit of a hike and we had to pass every specialty members only area before finally arriving at the common people turnstiles. It is a 10hkd entrance fee and you can use your octopus card if you have one. You will know that you have reached the cheapee area because you can see beer stalls just beyond the entrance.

Right past the turnstiles

The first of many, many beer stands

Lit up stadium full of people!

The tables where you can place pitchers

If you have never been to the horse races, GO. It is so much fun! The energy, the people, the beer, all make for a great night. I ended up going at around 7:00 but I found out that gates open at around 5:15-5:30.

Here is the official Hong Kong Jockey Club site with information about times, etc:

Race Courses FAQ 

If you are with a group, I would recommend going early since there are tables attached to the various beer stands and they fill up fast. If not, you can get right up to the track. If the places around the fence are full, wait until the next race finishes. It gets really crowded leading up to a race and as soon as it is over, people disappear to go gamble more or buy food and drinks. People are extremely friendly and open to talking. Some random guy filled up my beer cup with the pitcher that his group had. Another couple started chatting with me about how to bet and that they go for fun every single week. 

Right up against the rails

 I ended up gambling about 20hkd (minimum is 10hkd). I was with two other people and we all picked different numbers. We still lost, but it was all in good fun. Even if you aren't much of a gambler, put one bet down. It's an experience and even if you lose, there are bound to be people around you who are in the same position and then you can commiserate together!

There is something magical about being surrounded by the tall, lit buildings of Hong Kong and smelling horse and turf. When the horses start approaching your area, the crowd begins to roar and cheer, and even though the horses race past in a second, you can feel the ground shake. 

I think some of the horses were unruly and had to be led...

Yet another

Others just ran by themselves to the starting point

Man with newspaper he hopes he holds the answers to the race about to come past us

8 had a huge lead!

Next race

Even though 9 is leading, there is plenty that changes right near the end

Official Hong Kong Jockey Club board with the HK flag in the background

My winner!

The people who clean up the divots while watching out for the steaming ones!

The couple that was explaining the different types of bets told me how the boxes at the top of the stadium cost millions of U.S. dollars every year. They thought this was a complete waste of money since you would be so far from the action that it would be as if you were watching the race on TV. Even being in the restaurant distances you from the horses and the excitement of the crowd. I completely agreed. I would not have sacrificed being amidst the sea of energy for a better view. I think seeing a group of horses thunder past you is the best view in the house.      

The restaurant

The horses being paraded around before the race

Up close and personal

I can't imagine that is comfortable for the jockeys...

Races are every 15-30 minutes. You can pick up a handy guide which tells you race times and the competitors. I ended up placing another bet and winning! Off of 20hkd, I received 134hkd. It was enough to get dessert and I count myself lucky. I chose number 4 on a whim even though it wasn't given high statistics for winning. As much fun as it is to be outside, that is how depressing it is to be in the area where you place the bets. The sheer number of people staring avidly at the giant screens, scribbling furiously on notebooks or newspapers, and debating the merits of each horse is a little troubling. During each race, the board posts how much money is riding the winner and on which bets. These numbers reach 20,000,000hkd and up, and this is per race. 

SO much money

I won!

The winning ticket

I can't even fathom betting my life on something so chancy. I understand that this seems to allow people the illusion of more control as opposed to games like roulette, but it is still unpredictable. I think the cartoon film All Dogs go to Heaven gave a more plausible explanation of which horses win. The movie joked that it was the horses themselves who decided who should win based on whose birthday it was!

All in all, if you are in Hong Kong on a Wednesday, I highly recommend you go. In a couple, a small group, or a large group, there is a great night to be had.

Hong Kong and Lhasa

I am currently on my way back to Hong Kong after three months in Lhasa. For the occasion, I have compiled a list of things that I am looking forward to in Hong Kong and things that I will miss about Lhasa. 

Everything that I am looking forward to applies only to my individual situation. I am not making any sweeping claims about what anyone else experiences or their priorities. I also know that some problems are beyond the control of any of the hotel staff and the people I am around.

Hong Kong 

I think Hong Kong looks better at night.

1. Food variety

I miss the sheer diversity of food in Hong Kong for cheap to reasonable prices. I love Tibetan food, I love Chinese food but I miss being able to go out for something as simple as a burger. Or going up the alley in LKF that serves Thai, Indonesian, and Malaysian food without costing me all my money. While most restaurants here offer western fare, with the exceptions of St. Regis and La Bon Vie, they aren't great.

     2. Reliably hot showers

Call me spoiled but nothing beats the feel of a piping hot shower, especially as it gets colder. Showers at Dekang tend to be hot but will occasionally, seemingly at random, become lukewarm to chilly. 

    3. Not smelling smoke everywhere

Bans against smoking in public spaces/hotel rooms haven't quite made it over. I am really looking forward to being able to not be surprised by clouds of smoke in elevators and bathrooms in the hotel. Hong Kong is crazy about not smoking in public places and that is ridiculously exciting.

   4. Having the shower drain properly

During my stay, I have noticed that the shower drains more and more poorly. Every time I shower, it is like taking a knee bath at the same time. 

   5. Consistent internet

For about a month now, the internet has been shutting off at 2:00-2:30am. This isn't a problem for most people but because I am a night owl, it isn't very pleasant. Having made my peace with this restriction, a new issue has cropped up within the last couple of weeks. The internet will now randomly fluctuate throughout the day and become agonizingly slow for long periods. I am SO excited about having fast, reliable internet 24/7.

   6. Family and friends

I haven't seen my mom or brother for over a year and I am flying to Hong Kong to see them. I am very excited to be able to spend some time with them since I won't be heading back stateside until March. I also have some close friends in HK and, as much as I enjoy the company of the Boy, it will be nice to see everyone again.

Lhasa

It's nigh impossible to get a night shot of the whole of Lhasa.

   1. Tibetan food

While I do crave variety, I am a huge fan of anything with yak meat. I will especially miss Momos (the yak filled dumplings), Thukpa (noodle soup), and Tsaksha Lapuk (yak and radish soup).

  2. The view

The mountains surrounding Lhasa are some of the most gorgeous I have seen. There is nothing quite like waking up in the morning and seeing snow covered mountains in the distance. Not to mention the fact that because they are so far and vast, the clouds and the sun illuminate various portions.

  3. Dekang Hotel

For all my griping, Dekang has become my home and my comfort zone. The room is spectacular and I know the area really well. The staff here are incredible and extremely accommodating. They are so friendly and I will definitely miss them.

 4. Some of the monasteries

There are some monasteries here that are quiet and under the tourist radar. These are my favourite to visit since they have really neat little areas like caves and rooftop chapels.

  5. Mastiffs

I love, love LOVE mastiffs as you can see from this post An Ode to Tibetan Mastiffs. I will miss seeing mastiffs everywhere and especially the big red girl right now the street.

 6. Friends

I have made a few friends here and will miss seeing them!

Hopefully I will be able to come back in a month, but for now I will enjoy some delicious dim sum!