Thursday, September 20, 2012

The Wonders of Cappadocia

Before I launch into the Cappadocia post, I just wanted to make a quick plug for my newly launched Facebook Page: Unsettled TCK 
Please "like" it and share it!
Also head over to: Unsettled TCK Gallery for more photos!

Here are links to all of my gallery pages that show the pictures for each of these sections. These are filled with my best shots so please head over. Definitely look at the horseback riding ones and the hot air balloon ones:

 1. The Walk to Goreme Open Air Museum

2. Goreme Open Air Museum

3. Selime Monastery Cappadocia

4. Kaymakli Underground City

5. Goreme Cappadocia

6. Dibek Restaurant Cappadocia

7. Seten Restaurant Cappadocia

8. Orient Restaurant Cappadocia

9. Rose Valley Cappadocia

10. Ihlara Valley Cappadocia

11. Sunset Point Goreme

12. Sunset Horseback Riding Cavusin Village Part 1 

13. Sunset Horseback Riding Cavusin Village Part 2

14. Sunset Horseback Riding Cavusin Village Part 3

15. Pasabag Monks Valley 

16. Uchisar Castle 

17. Butterfly Hot Air Balloon Part 1

18. Butterfly Hot Air Balloon Part 2

19. Butterfly Hot Air Balloon Part 3

20. Butterfly Hot Air Balloon Part 4 

Scroll down to see all the pictures. Also you can navigate between the photo posts using the arrows post/post by/label portion. 

Introduction

Cappadocia should be on everyone's bucket list. It is one of the most unique and amazing places that I have ever been to in my entire life. It has the most surreal landscape and you will feel like you are in a living photograph.

Göreme, Cappadocia: Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for more photos
The region of Cappadocia is known for three things: fairy chimneys, underground cities, and hot air balloons. When tourists visit Cappadocia there are a couple of cities to stay in that will give you access to all three of these sights. The two I researched prior to my trip were Ürgüp and Göreme (pronounced gor-e-meh). From what I researched, Ürgüp was more expensive and Göreme was more for backpacker types. I ended up in Göreme and I really enjoyed the city. I don't think you are missing out on anything by staying there.

Welcome to Göreme, Cappadocia: Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for more photos

Transportation

You can go to Cappadocia without any sort of tour agency. The bus system here in Turkey is really good. All you need to do is go to the otogar (the bus station) of whatever city you are in and request times for where you want to go. From Alanya to Göreme it is about an eight and a half hour bus ride with all the stops. My bus dropped us off at Nevsehir and then the bus company should shuttle you to Göreme. You can also fly to Kayseri and Nevsehir, the two nearby airports.There are cabs that are also willing to take you to your destination.

Personal screens with shows (all in Turkish) and even wifi for the bus to Cappadocia

Travel Agency


Since I was very unclear about whether or not I could travel to Cappadocia without a travel agency, I went with Turkish Heritage Travels since I wanted a bit more autonomy and more time visiting. One of the big selling points for why I decided on this company was that their tours do not take you to "view" pottery exhibits, rug showings, and any of the other touristy trap activities. They arranged bus tickets for me and the Boy as well as a cave hotel in Göreme and hot air balloon flights with Butterfly Balloons.

Turkish Heritage Travels arranged for me to take the overnight bus so that I arrived early the next morning. Also, Göreme is right in the middle of a ton of hikes that you can do yourself. There are also a million tour agencies who are willing to arrange visits to whatever sites you want to go to. Just shop around for price and make sure that the itinerary doesn't include those pesky shopping stops. I really recommend Turkish Heritage Travels because it was always a small group (max eight people) and the guides were very knowledgeable and friendly. The restaurants that they took us to during the tours were excellent. If you haven't booked them ahead of time, they have offices in Göreme right next to Butterfly Balloons. Just ask around town since they are an easy walk.

I went on the History and Adventure tour and the Explore and Hike tour and I highly recommend them both. I spoke to one woman who did all three of their tours and she said that the History and Adventure and the Cappadocia Undiscovered tour were really similar. So if you are undecided, I would recommend choosing one of those and the Explore and Hike tour.

 Accomodation

I stayed in Divan Cave House. I read that staying in a cave hotel was a must and so I made that one of my requirements when booking with Turkish Heritage. You can also just go ahead and book everything yourself. I had a junior suite and it was roomy and very, very cool. There is no air con but it really wasn't needed. I don't know how the summer months treated this since I went in September when it wasn't as blazing outside. I enjoyed my stay since it was clean and the beds were comfortable and fairly soft. It is a bit of an uphill walk from the center of town but only around 10 minutes. The staff were very friendly and helpful and they are willing to pick you up from the otogar. I would stay again.

Divan Cave House, Cappadocia: Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for more photos

Balloon Ride

Go on a hot air balloon ride. If you are on the fence, DO IT. It is a phenomenal experience and I guarantee you will not regret it. I HIGHLY recommend Butterfly Balloons. The cost was 160 euros but it was completely worth the money for this once in a life time opportunity. Our ride was actually an hour and fifteen minutes and we went through valleys and even hovered a couple of feet off of the ground. Our pilot was hilarious and so were all the comments that I overheard on their radio. Our pilot's name was Kaan and he was very friendly and professional. He even landed the basket directly on the truck bed at the end. He also gave us a lesson on what all the different cords did. We had a balloon of 16 people with four to each section of the basket. The pilot even rotated the balloon so that you got to see the whole 360 degree view rather than just the part that your corner faced. I heard of other companies that flew 26 to 30 people during flights that only lasted 45 minutes and only hovered up before heading back down. If you are going to spend the money on a balloon ride, go with a company that is worthwhile. I spoke to one woman who recommended Rainbow Balloons and of course Kapadokya Balloons, the oldest company running. Although you need to book Kapadokya Balloons way in advance because they are in high demand.

All of them have a champagne celebration which is fun. They also provide breakfast before the balloon ride. You will be up early since the pick up is usually around 5:20am in order to catch the sunrise. Butterfly Balloons also drove us about twenty minutes to the launch spot. The sky was lightening, but don't worry, you won't see the sun peek over until you are up in the air. Also, at the end with the champagne celebration is a little surprise. If you want a picture with the folded up balloon, the staff will actually pick you up and drop you onto it!

The whole ride is very gentle and smooth. No turbulence at all!

Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for more Cappadocia hot air balloon photos

Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for more Cappadocia hot air balloon photos
View from the top: head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for more Cappadocia hot air balloon photos
View from the top: head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for more Cappadocia hot air balloon photos

Horseback Riding

The first day I got in I did a sunset horseback riding tour. I was expecting some old, plodding granny and grandpa horses. Instead I got a spirited four year old that wanted nothing more than to show how fast he could run. It was a great ride and I am very glad I did it since we went to the top of Cavusin (pronounced chow-shien) Village and it was a spectacular sunset. If you decide to do this tour, unless you are a very skilled rider, tell the tour leader that you are a beginner because they will put you on a more sedate animal. It will still prance but it won't be the trial that mine was. I made the mistake of trumpeting that I had four years experience. My back and legs were not pleased with me the next day. I arranged this tour through Turkish Heritage but you can also do it yourself by going to the ranch that is just below the pottery shop with weird aliens on the way to Göreme Open Air Museum. Also, the owners of this ranch actually loan their horses to be in movies. Our guide was actually going to be in a Brazilian one the following month.

Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for more photos

Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for more photos
Aliens in Cappadocia: Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for more photos

Best Sites to See

During my time in Cappadocia, I saw:

1. The Göreme Open Air Museum

You can easily do this yourself walking from Göreme. Just follow the signs and ask people. It is about a fifteen to twenty minute walk depending on how fast you are. On the way you will pass by the pottery shop with the aliens and the horse ranch underneath. It is worth seeing for all the cave churches, although I bet you that you will get a bit tired of all the frescoes after awhile.

The one church that you should not miss is the Dark Church and it is in the Open Air Museum. It is an extra 8 lira but well worth the money since here the murals have been preserved in vivid color. 


Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for photos.

2. Kaymakli Underground City

This is the smaller of the two main underground cities since it only goes to 40 meters. Derinkuyu goes down to 80 meters. Cappadocia boasts over 200 underground cities, although only a few are open to public viewing. You should go to at least one because they are truly mind blowing. The sheer number of chambers, rooms, wineries, and imposing stone doors are well worth the crouching that you need to do in some of the tunnels.

Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for photos.

3. Rose Valley

Rose Valley from Göreme. It is located on the walk to the Open Air Museum. Just ask at the information desk in front of the otogar and they will give you a map. You can actually do the trails yourself in this valley yourself and they are well marked so you probably won't get lost. Make sure to bring plenty of water just in case!

Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for photos.

4. Sunset Point Göreme

This is an overlook point that you can get to in the heart of Göreme. The street is behind the mosque and you just need to keep going up. If you end up doing the History and Adventure tour then the place you have lunch is right below the sunset point. This is definitely worth doing during a free evening. Bring some drinks and make sure to scope out a good place since there is plenty of room!

Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for photos.

5. Pigeon Valley

This is most easily accessed from Göreme and it leads into Rose Valley. The reason it is called Pigeon Valley is because pigeons are actually sacred animals and Cappadocians build homes for them in the rock. They even decorate these homes in red paint, which is supposed to be pleasing to pigeons. If you are reborn as a pigeon, then I hope you are one in Cappadocia. 

Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for photos.

6. Cavusin Village

This is pronounced nothing like how it is spelled... While I horseback rode up to the top, you can hike. There is also a nice little restaurant with a lovely outdoor grotto for you to enjoy the vista as the sun sets. 

Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for photos.
Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for more photos.
Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for even more photos. 

7. Ilhara Valley

Very different from all of the other valleys since Ilhara is green! Verdant with a lovely stream, it is a refreshing change from the dusty trails of the other hikes. There are also a ton of nifty cave churches that you can visit while you walk. It is pretty insane to know that Christians hid and lived in these caves to survive persecution! This valley is about an hour away from Göreme.

Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for photos.

8. Uchisar Castle

There isn't too much to see here. It is mostly for the view at a distance since a woman broke her legs climbing it a few years ago. We stopped for a photo op.

Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for photos.

9. Pasabag/Monks Valley

These are the fairy chimneys with the basalt on the top. Kind of phallic looking, they are usually referred to as mushroom tops. Neat to see but you will be seeing a lot of them!

Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for photos.

10. Selime Monastery

This was definitely one of the highlights. If you get the chance, GO TO SELIME! I was expecting another Open Air Museum with more churches and more frescoes. Actually it is this wonderful fun climbing, tunneling, temple-like experience where you get to feel like a Flintstone. Not too strenuous since you can pick and choose the areas you want to go into, it is a really great site to see in Cappadocia. The carvings were great, the space was great, and, if you ignore the other tourists, you will feel like an explorer. This is on the way to Ilhara Valley and takes about 45 minutes to get to from Göreme.

Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for photos.

Food

 Here are the restaurants I ate at and I recommend them all:

Dibek

Definitely pre-order the clay pots. You need to give them a few hours advance notice. This is really important because the Testi Kebab (meat and vegetables cooked in a clay pot) specialty takes a few hours to make. If you go to a restaurant and order it and they bring it out immediately, that means they have just been reheating it and you run the risk of stomach problems. I highly recommend the dish but make sure you go to a trustworthy place like Dibek.

Dibek Restaurant Cappadocia: Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for photos

Seten Restaurant

Seten is actually on the way to Divan Cave House. It is a weirdly fancy but for good price restaurant with incredibly tasty food. I wasn't a fan of the kofte since it reminded me of Chef Boyardee but my lamb was great and so was the appetizer and the baklava.

Seten Restaurant Cappadocia: Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for photos

Orient Restaurant

This is located past the Elis Hamam Turkish bath. Just ask for directions because this place is worth it. I had the rack of lamb and the Boy had the marbled steak which they set on fire. Great food, decent price, lots of wine.

Orient Restaurant Cappadocia: Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for photos

Koy Evi

This is the restaurant where we had lunch during the History and Adventure Tour. This is also the restaurant on the way to the Göreme Sunset Point. Great food, great service, and really really great price.

Koy Evi Restaurant Cappadocia: Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for photos

Oze Coffee Shop

This one doesn't have a website. It is right in the center of Göreme and has great flavored coffee and desserts. It also has wifi and books so that you can chill out.

Oze Coffee Shop Cappadocia: Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for photos

Advice

If I have one major piece of advice for Cappadocia it is this: do not rush. A lot of people I talked to had arrived that morning and were already booked for the three days they were going, even having a tour before their flight/bus. Touring is exhausting and especially with the hot air balloon ride since you will be up at 4:30 am. Give yourself a buffer day to relax and definitely do some stuff on your own where you can set your own pace.

Other piece of warning is that it is dusty. I found myself congested by the end of my trip, so make sure to hydrate plenty and hopefully you won't have any breathing problems!

Concluding Remarks

This was an unforgettable trip and I really hope that you will get to go one day.

Göreme, Cappadocia: Head over to Unsettled TCK Gallery for more photos

1 comment:

  1. It is great. Thanks for your review. I am looking forward to see there.

    ReplyDelete