Friday, October 14, 2011

Top Ten Lhasa Quirks

*Note: these are just my observations and shouldn't be taken as written in stone. This is not meant to be in any way offensive or hurtful. Nor should it be taken to apply to the entire Tibetan population. This is only what I have seen in Lhasa. Please don't read this post as a sweeping generalization.*

*This was partly inspired by this post from Legal Nomads: Top 10 Philippine Quirks. I actually plan to write my own in response to hers since I have a different list*

Every country and culture has a unique set of attributes that leave visitors amused and/or bemused. These are neither negative nor positive, they just simply are. Here are the top ten that I've noticed of Tibetans:

      1. Short-term memory loss. I have specifically noticed this in the Tibetans at Dekang Hotel. 

Whenever I have an issue or need something, I go to the reception desk. They are always very accommodating and willing to help out. After I go up to my room I sit down to wait. After about thirty to forty minutes, I'll go back down to see what's going on and they will abashedly inform me they forgot. This is not to say that they didn't remember me coming down the first time, they just forgot to do or set in motion whatever I asked. This will usually happen one or two times (sometimes even three) before it works out. I absolutely love Dekang, I think it is the nicest of the four hotels I have stayed at in Lhasa, but this is a head-scratcher of a quirk.

     2.  The extreme friendliness of Tibetans, especially toward other Tibetans. 

Tibetans are known for being a generally friendly group of people. Most will flash a smile or walk up to chat in bars. Even their staring is more good-natured than most since they are smiling and laughing without even a hint of maliciousness. But, put two Tibetans together that previously had never met and soon enough they will be engaged in the longest of conversations like the most bosom of buddies. For example, I went to Samye monastery yesterday and my Tibetan tour guide proceeded to chat with the driver the whole way there and back, never mind that this was their first meeting. I did not detect a single awkward silence.

     3. Playfulness

Tibetans are THE most playful people I have ever met. They will play-kick and whack each other, and that's just the adults. On any given day, you are bound to see at least one mock-chase and/or laughing practical joke. Teasing is a very strong part of how Tibetans interact and there doesn't seem to be any inhibitions about acting "childish" and not like an "adult". It is extremely infectious and fun to watch!

     4. Ponderous steps

This is not universal but I've noticed a majority of Tibetans walk as if they weigh more than they do. Each step has a weighty fall and if you have ever heard Tibetans running up and down stairs (even skinny girls), it sounds like a herd of elephants! 

    5. Tibetans will always win a game of chicken

When walking, Tibetans never deviate from their path. Ever. Even if it means they will run into you. Like all of Asia, there is no such thing as a bubble of personal space. Take this to the furthest extent and you have Tibetans. This doesn't mean that they are rude or deliberately being aggressive like shouldering past a person would mean in places like the U.S. It's just how they are. I can't even count how many times I have been standing at a stall in the Barkhour when someone clips my side as they circumambulate past.

    6. Listening in

Along the same lines as the quirk above, Tibetans have no qualms about listening in on another conversation even when it's a conversation between two people who are strangers. They are very curious and I've noticed this is especially the case when my boyfriend starts speaking Tibetan. It almost seems like he's a talking monkey and who wouldn't want to listen in on a talking monkey? I will literally be shunted to the side as they crowd around him and whoever he is talking to. Even kids will slip in front and lounge while staring avidly into his face.

I started out right next to him

    7. Fear of heights doesn't exist

I don't know if this applies to all Tibetans but from what I've seen, not a one is afraid of heights. They will pelt down rickety stairs, climb up the most precarious ladders, and half-run, half-slide down the sides of mountains. I saw this most vividly illustrated at Mount Hepori. While I was panting up the stairs (new), a Tibetan man was calmly walking on the slippery slope and making MUCH better time than me. 

Spot the mountaineer Tibetan while I climb on my handy steps

   8. Makeshift baby carriers

Hands-free baby carriers here consist of two ropes: one across the baby's shoulder and one across their knees. Because of this, one of the most common sights you will see here is a baby head lolling backwards and their butt sticking out in a sort of makeshift squat position. I can't see how this would be comfortable, but usually the kids are happily passed out.

The baby placement is a bit more extreme when they're not swaddled in a million layers

   9. Holding hands

When talking to anyone, Tibetans will hold hands. The whole time. Not in a relationship sort of way, just in a companionable "I am talking to you and you are talking to me" sort of way. Tibetan men will usually stand in the street facing each other, hands clasped together. If you shake a Tibetan's hand and start engaging in conversation, this will likely happen to you, especially if you are a guy.

  10. Treatment of animals

This is probably the only negative thing I have to say about Tibetans. While dogs and cats are considered companions here, animals behind bars are another matter. Walking along the streets, there are plenty of dogs in adorable red mane collars. Some have bells and all seem fairly content. It seems like almost every family or shop has a dog. Cats are more scarce but again, I haven't seen any mistreated. 


Lions, tigers, wolves, and other "zoo" animals are a completely different story. If you haven't read my post: Lhasa in the Warmth: Dekang Hotel, Miserable Lions and Tigers and Bears, Oh My!, please do and you'll get a clearer picture. In short, I've seen Tibetans (and Chinese) of all ages, from children to adults, abusing the animals. In order to get a show, they will throw rocks and stones, make roaring noises, rattle cages, and toss trash at the poor wildlife. For such a friendly people, this is a pretty shocking departure and I hope that one day they will view zoos as a way to preserve these creatures instead of as a means of entertainment. This does not in any way, shape, or form apply to all Tibetans. I spoke to one who said that he never goes to the zoo because he does not approve of what goes on there.

Mmmmm, trash
Well, that just about rounds out the list! If you have others, feel free to add them in the comments. If you think I'm wrong about any of them, feel free to criticize in the comments.

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